John Henry: The Shirt I Made About America

This one goes back to 2002, right after I moved to Los Angeles. I was somewhere around 18 or 19 and totally on fire.

John Henry one-of-one t-shirt by Andrew Hanson

MoMo and a show that never was

Not long after I got to LA, I linked up with Jerell Scott, who later went on to Project Runway. We met through MoMo, a clothing store that used to sit on Beverly and Stanley, where I was working at the time.

I was invited by Jerell to participate in a fashion show. Unfortunately, it never was. It fell through, and that's still how I describe it. But the work I made for it is still here and just as powerful today, in my opinion. But maybe I am biased. Ha!

That was two years after the first F shirt. Read where it all started →

The shirt

It's most likely an American Apparel shirt, the 2001 style. I refit it, which means I sewed up the sides and the arms so it fit tight. That's how we wore them back then.

On the front, I appliquéd a Confederate flag bandana. I have no idea where I got it. Then I burned holes in it and cut holes in it.

Close-up of the appliqué and distressing

On top of the flag sits John Henry’s fist, in the shape of the power-to-the-people fist, holding a hammer. The hammer is cut from upholstery fabric. The stitching on the back is chaotic, reminiscent of fire or a fireball, which is why the flag is burned. The shirt also has actual rust all over it. All this, in my opinion, makes for a pretty strong statement. At least young me sure as hell thought it did.

Close-up of the power-to-the-people fist and hammer

If you don't know John Henry, he's an American folk hero, the steel-driving man who raced a machine and won. I highly recommend you check it out. Johnny Cash has a pretty good song about it too. Give it a listen if you get a chance.

The back

On the back is a heat transfer with a verse from Anti-Flag, a band I was really into at the time. The verse calls out racism and blind nationalism, and I still stand behind it. I put chaotic stitching all around it, again, to look like or reference fire.

Anti-Flag lyric on the back, heat-transfer print

Bottom sweep of the John Henry t-shirt

Why America

That whole collection was about early American history. It drew from the blues and from American folklore, and it was made while the country was heading into war. This shirt was my way of getting that out. Because music, as well as history, has always been a powerful muse for me, I really wanted to convey something powerful and close to my heart at the time. Without saying too much, I am pretty confident I captured that.

Your turn

What's something you made, or wore, to say what you couldn't say out loud?

Tell me in the comments.

Triple Skull T-Shirt

This one is one of a kind. I never put the Triple Skull t-shirt into production. I made it for a friend of mine in Las Vegas around 2008–2009, back when Vegas was where I did all my printing.

Two on the chest, one at the hip.

Why the tag is upside down

If you look closely, the tag is upside down. That’s on purpose. Back then, I did small things like that to mark a piece as special rather than regular, and at the time, an upside-down tag was how I did it. If you have one of my pieces with a flipped tag, now you know.

Upside down means special.

How it came together

It takes the Triple Skull from the hoodie and moves it onto a t-shirt, with a few changes:

• Hand-printed with spray paint, using three stencils

• An all-over print made using sheet metal

• Grommets set through both the patch and the t-shirt, so the eyes go all the way through

• My signature shoulder stitching

I also filmed the original video of this shirt for my YouTube channel, Fashion Enemy, back then.

Three stencils, brass grommets, frayed muslin.

What’s next

I’ve been thinking about bringing this one back in some shape or form. It may not come back exactly like this, because this one stays one of a kind, but the idea isn’t finished yet.

Want to know when it happens? Join the mailing list.